As a young man, Jason Myers grew bored of burgers. When he went out to eat with his friends, he would always get fried chicken instead. At Basilisk, his walk-in-closet of a fried-chicken restaurant, ...

First came the glut of crisp-skinned rotisserie birds, some served with tender cabbage and housemade tortillas, others with tart radicchio salads or chicken fat-roasted potatoes. Now comes the zenith ...